George Tatakis
Jan 94 min
Updated: 21 hours ago
Nestled in the historic sacred city of Missolonghi, the St. Simeon Festivals are a captivating blend of tradition, celebration, and a touch of mystique. Twice a year, this enchanting event unfolds within the sacred walls of the St. Simeon Monastery, creating an atmosphere steeped in history and local fervor.
"Every free man is a citizen of Messolonghi." - a quote inscribed at the city's wall.
Held on the name days of Ipapantis and Saint Simeon, the winter festival, a hidden gem, takes place on February 2 and 3. Unlike its vibrant summer counterpart, the winter celebration is more intimate, wrapped in a cloak of nostalgia and local charm.
For those seeking a taste of Missolonghi's unique offerings, a scenic three-hour drive from Athens unveils a world rich in cultural treasures. Beyond the festivities, the city boasts the production of exquisite local Ouzo and the renowned Greek Avgotaraho, a delicacy known as Bottarga, crafted from cured Grey Mullet roe.
"Avgotaraho: Tasting a single slice will cause a velvety explosion of fruits and the sea in your mouth—combined with a spicy whiff—that will reach the utmost parts of your brain. …a long-lasting sensation." - Simos Georgopoulos, Journalist
En route to Missolonghi from Athens, the journey unfolds across the iconic Rio-Antirio Bridge, a testament to engineering ingenuity. Overcoming nature's challenges, this bridge connects Peloponnese to the mainland, leaving travelers in awe of its construction brilliance.
Missolonghi offers more than just festivals; it presents a breathtaking lagoon adorned with diverse avian inhabitants and wooden homes perched atop its surface, creating a picturesque landscape.
The roots of the St. Simeon Festivals intertwine with the era of Turkish rule and the heroic exit of the people of Missolonghi. Clad in the local costume known as Ntoulamas, the arm bearers and horse riders become the heartbeat of the festival, echoing the resilience of the city's past.
Summer vs. Winter: The choice of traditional costumes is more prevalent during the Summer Festival, contrasting the more intimate and memory-laden Winter celebration.
Contrary to the summer revelry, the winter festival unveils a more 'closed' celebration. While lacking the grand parade, it offers a unique ambiance, emphasizing shared memories, joyous encounters, and rhythmic dances.
"Winter festival is all about meeting friends, enjoying over the dinner table with singing and dancing."
Behind closed doors, within the huts built around the monastery, the essence of the winter celebration unfolds. Photographers seeking to capture these moments are advised to follow a simple mantra: "Meet first, photograph later."
"If you want to take pictures, remember, meet first, photograph later."
The air during the St. Simeon Festivals resonates with the melodies of Roma musicians playing traditional instruments like the drum and Zournas. Dionysian sounds, paired with the spirited consumption of alcohol, transport attendees to a heightened state of revelry.
As night descends upon St. Simeon, a unique tradition unfolds—the locals throw US dollars at the musicians to show their appreciation. A nod to tradition, this practice originated when the Drachma was in circulation. With the Euro as the currency of the land, locals exchange their bills for one-dollar notes, ensuring the continuation of this symbolic gesture.
"Musicians get bills thrown at them, and because the five Euro one is too much, they get one-dollar bills instead."
The festivities culminate with a full-night party, transitioning seamlessly into the Morning Mass. However, on rare occasions, as happened this year, an unfortunate incident may interrupt the celebration. In this instance, a participant's heart attack brought an unexpected halt to the festivities, reminding attendees of life's unpredictable nature.
Marking the national holiday of the Holy Spirit, the summer St. Simeon Festival unfolds over three consecutive days. In stark contrast to the winter gathering, the summer celebration bursts forth with grandeur and color.
A magnificent parade sets the stage, commencing from the city's Cathedral Saint Spiridon. Horses and their riders lead the way, followed by arm bearers adorned in the Ntoulamas costume. The procession traverses the city, culminating in Heroes square, where a memorial pays tribute to the city's history.
As the procession reaches St. Simeon, a night of revelry unfolds until the Morning Mass. An intriguing tradition continues, with locals showering musicians with US dollars, as with the winter festival, embracing the spirit of celebration.
As the final chords of the St. Simeon Summer Festival faded, the woods around the monastery became an impromptu dormitory. Exhausted from the night's revelry, people sprawled on the ground or nestled in huts, finding solace in the quiet embrace of nature. Capturing the scene with my camera, I immortalized the serene aftermath—a mosaic of tired smiles, tousled hair, horses, and the collective sigh of a community resting beneath the waking trees.
The Morning Mass during the summer festival intertwines with mass baptisms of Roma children. Boys and girls are baptized separately, emphasizing the spiritual and communal aspects of the celebration. As the church ceremony concludes, the festivities resume, resonating until the early hours of Tuesday morning.
In conclusion, the St. Simeon Festivals in Missolonghi offer a kaleidoscope of experiences, blending historical reverence, cultural richness, and contemporary revelry. Whether in the cozy embrace of winter memories or the vibrant burst of summer celebrations, each festival uniquely portrays this enchanting city's spirit.
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