top of page

SHOP

Flour wars of Galaxidi on Ash Monday

Writer's picture: George TatakisGeorge Tatakis

Galaxidi in Greece is a host to a very interesting event on Ash Monday every year, called Alevromountzouromata, i.e. Flour Wars. It is a custom that takes place for a very long time and features music, dancing, bonfires and jumping over them, smoke bombs, flares and, of course, lots and lots of flour dust!


A team of participants at the flour wars of Galaxidi, aka Alevromountzouromata
A team of participants at the flour wars of Galaxidi, aka Alevromountzouromata


Visiting Galaxidi for the Flour Wars - Alevromountzouromata



Unveiling the Origins


Oh, what a day! On my way back from the Carnival of Zante, I visited the almost two-century-old custom of flour wars in Galaxidi. The custom from what I hear is debated to originate either from Sicily or Byzantium. It is also said that not even during the Ottoman occupation could this custom be stopped. This custom takes place on Ash Monday only, so the date is not fixed, while nothing similar takes place anywhere else around Greece.



A girl wearing protective face mask and clothes at the flour wars of Galaxidi
A girl wearing protective face mask and clothes




The Flour-Clad Parade


I arrived ahead of time, around noon, and heard that the parade was due to start at around two to three in the afternoon. All the locals were dressed in their old clothes and most of them had their faces painted blue, ash or ochre. They have one or two cloth bags hung on either of their sides full of coloured flour. If you don't have any, free flour is provided by the local authorities near the city's entrance.


The event starts with a parade of self-made chariots and pedestrians. It starts from the place where the flour is being given and follows the central road towards the port. It is easy to tell which road it is, as the buildings are covered in canvas to protect them from the flour.