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Writer's pictureGeorge Tatakis

Olympos, Karpathos: Traditions Steeped in History


A secluded place on a secluded Greek island. One of the reasons that this place still keeps most of its traditions alive. That, and the richness of these traditions. A matrilocal community where the firstborn girl will be the sole heir to the family fortune. Olympians are descendants of the Byzantine Empire, where Byzantine traditions still survive in their most vivid form.

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The Byzantine Easter in Olympos, Karpathos.

As a photographer interested in Greek culture and traditions, I very much wanted to capture Easter in Olympos. Olympos is a somewhat secluded place, located on the island of Karpathos, where traditions are still strong. Situated 40 km from Pigadia, the capital of the island, Olympos is reached by a tricky road that was asphalted only as late as the 2010s. The people of Olympos regard themselves as descendants of the Byzantine Empire and are one of the few places in the world where a visitor can experience authentic Byzantine tradition, although other traditions are involved, too. This method of celebration has been registered in the UNESCO Archive of Worldwide Intangible Cultural Heritage.

A woman decorating the Epitaphios in the main square of Olympos on the island of Karpathos, Greece
Decorating the Epitaphios

I wanted to experience the customs of Olympos in-depth and get to know the people living there. And so I travelled to the island early in the season, when the village was still empty. I had found a place to stay in the village of Diafani, a nearby coastal settlement that serves as a port. In the past, people from Olympos involved in maritime matters would stay in this spot, so that houses eventually appeared and a village grew up. Today, Diafani is the second harbour of the island.

 

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Olympos, Karpathos. Collection of prints in a room. By photographer George Tatakis
 

Olympos is probably the most interesting spot on the island. It possesses beautiful architecture and stands on a hilltop set between two mountains. One can easily lose oneself in the narrow alleys and travel back in time.

A group of men discussing at the central café of Olympos, on the island of Karpathos, Greece
People chatting at the café at the main square

The first few days of Holy Week are devoted to preparations for Easter, which consist mostly of baking. Around the village of Olympos, the community has built many wood-burning ovens. These can be used by anyone, as long as they use their wood and keep the ovens clean and tidy. During these days of Holy Week, traditional recipes are used for baking bread and cakes.

Two women in the traditional local costumes, lighting up the wood-burning oven. Olympos, Karpathos, Greece
Papa Yannis’ wife Irene with her friend, lighting the wood-burning oven

Notable religious rituals regarding Easter commence on the Wednesday of Holy Week, after Tuesday night’s Hymn to Kassiani. On Wednesday, the priest blesses those visiting the church, so they are ready to receive Holy Communion on Thursday. This is, however, not a busy day at the church and only a few people come for the blessing, since the priest also bestows it on Thursday, too, just before Communion.

The local priest, performing a liturgy at the main church on Holy Wednesday. Olympos, Karpathos, Greece
Papa Yannis performing the liturgy by himself

I enjoyed my time in the village. Everybody I met was most hospitable. I learned a lot about the community simply through conversation with most of the inhabitants and through striking up friendships.

Kalliopi owns the local bakery and makes excellent traditional pies and bread in her wood-burning oven. She frequently gave me coffee during my stay and I even had the chance to visit her house, built in the traditional style of Olympos.

A local baker, in her traditional costume, inside her traditional home. Olympos, Karpathos, Greece
Kalliope at home

On Thursday, after churchgoers have received Communion, the Litany of Christ on the Cross is performed. The church becomes busier and the following days until Tuesday after Easter will be the busiest. Papa Yannis is the local priest. He is a very kind man with great pose and style. He is very funny and one can spot him most afternoons sitting on a chair in the central square, talking with his fellow Olympians and even cracking risqué jokes. One simply needs to get to know him somewhat before he loosens up.

He took the time to show me around the ancient main church of the village and explained the icons painted on the walls. During Holy Week, all the icons along the main iconostasis, where the icons are mounted in the church are covered with black embroidery as a sign of mourning.

The local priest, carrying the cross on Holy Thursday, inside the main church. Olympos, Karpathos, Greece
Papa Yannis holding a crucifix. He is careful to place his hand on the Cross, rather than on Christ’s body

Good Friday, the day of the Epitaphios, follows. The Epitaphios itself is a wooden representation of the bier of Christ, which the women of Karpathos decor