In the heart of Greece, nestled approximately sixty kilometres northeast of Thessaloniki, lies the village of Sohos. Amidst the serene landscapes between Lagadas and Nigrita, residents of Sohos intertwine their lives with the tradition of the Koudounoforoi. These enigmatic figures, known for their transformative impact, fill the streets, stirring both earth and sky, challenging nature and society.

When? | Where? |
Starting from the New Year, until Ash Monday every year. | Around the town of Sohos. Around 60 km northeast of Thessaloniki, Greece. |
Sohos: The Koudounoforoi Phenomenon
The Koudounoforoi, or bell-bearers, present a spectacle like no other. Groups adorned in black goat skins, adorned with dozens of bells known as "koudounia," emerge from all corners, leaping and jingling their bells in rhythmic unison. Particularly striking is their visage, characterized by a mask-like headpiece, known as "kalpaki," which covers the entire face, culminating in a tall crest of ribbons. Crafted from black fabric, and adorned with intricate geometric patterns, these masks feature horsehair moustaches dangling from the mouth area.
I have found myself in the town of Sohos to photograph the portraits of Koudounoforoi, as well as the female local dresses, for my project 'Caryatis'. Our first photo shoot with the 'Foustanousses' took us to the local Museum of Folklore.

A Tradition Steeped in Antiquity
Boasting ancient roots, the carnival of Sohos is deeply entrenched in the fabric of its society. Locals firmly believe that the carnival's success directly influences the fertility of their crops and the fortunes of the year ahead. Its characteristics vividly echo remnants of spring festivals, celebrating fertility and the bountiful yield of the land. Central to this naturalistic narrative stands the figure of Dionysus, symbolizing the cycle of growth and fruition. The Koudounoforoi of Sohos, are a primal vestige of Dionysian worship and Bacchanalian revelry.
With the help of Fanis (no pun intended, this is a name in Greece), we found a few local old abandoned houses around Sohos, so that I could take photographic portraits of both the Koudounoforoi of Sohos, as well as the "Foustanousses", i.e. the women wearing the local dresses.
