The journey began with a simple desire—to reconnect with my Pontic roots and explore the city of Trabzon, a place steeped in history and cultural richness. In this photographic odyssey, I invite you to join me on a narrative journey through the enchanting city, the culinary delights of Hamsiköy, a night spent with a Pontic family in Iskenderli, and the vibrant celebration of the Dormition of the Virgin at the mountaintop festival in Izmiş.
Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage.
Trabzon, nestled on the northeastern coast of Turkey, holds a special place in the heart of those with Pontic ancestry, like myself. As I embarked on this journey, the goal was not just to explore a city but to trace the threads of my heritage woven into the fabric of Pontos, thus Trabzon's history.
The Enchanting City of Trabzon
Historical landmarks
The Hagia Sophia of Trabzon stands as a silent witness to centuries of Pontic history. Its walls echo stories of conquests, cultural exchanges, and the resilience of the Pontic people. Trabzon Castle, perched on a hill, offers panoramic views of the city and the Black Sea, providing a visceral connection to the past.
The Trabzon Museum, a repository of Pontic heritage, houses artefacts that narrate the tale of a people deeply rooted in tradition. Wandering through the narrow streets of the old town, one can't help but be captivated by the architectural gems that speak of a bygone era.
Unveiling Trabzon's Charm
Enchanting Lake Uzungöl
Trabzon's enchanting beauty finds its pinnacle at Lake Uzungöl. Surrounded by emerald forests, the lake mirrors the tranquillity of the Pontic way of life. A stroll along its shores is a poetic dance between nature and history.
Kalyan: A Hidden Gem
Venturing beyond the mainstream, Kalyan emerges as a hidden gem. This quaint village narrates tales of a bygone era, its cobbled streets echoing with whispers of the Pontic legacy. Kalyan invites every traveller to become a storyteller.
Hamsiköy: Savoring the Tastiest Rice Pudding
Culinary delights
Hamsiköy, a quaint village near Trabzon, is renowned for its delectable rice pudding (Ryzogalo). The irresistible blend of creamy rice, tasty milk, subtle sweetness, and a hint of local flavours, such as rose water and the famous Pontic ground hazelnuts (in Pontic: Leftokarea') creates a culinary masterpiece. It's not just a dessert; it's a sensory journey.
In Hamsiköy, I found myself immersed in a culinary adventure. Conversations with locals revealed the secrets behind the perfect rice pudding recipe, each family adding a unique touch. The shared joy of savouring this delicacy created a bond that transcended language.
The monastery of Panagia Sumela (Sumela Manastir)
On the way, we couldn't miss stopping at the monastery of the Virgin Sumela. The most important religious site for the Pontic Greeks. The Icon of the Virgin from that monastery is kept in Greece, at the monastery of Sumela near Kozani, Macedonia. This is a very important religious artifact for Greeks and when a litany takes place, the Icon is treated with the honours of the head of state.
Iskenderli: A Night in the Mountains with a Pontic Family
Journey to the mountain village
The road to Iskenderli is a scenic masterpiece, winding through lush landscapes and revealing glimpses of Pontic life. On the way, I stopped at a village in-between, the name of which escapes my mind at the moment. I noticed there was a dance set up in a school's yard. The dancing looked very familiar to me as it was Pontic, the 'Tik' which we Pontics still dance today in Greece. I lingered for a couple of hours to enjoy the frivolity and join the dance.
Immersed in Pontic Hospitality
Arriving at the mountain village, I was welcomed with open arms, the air filled with the warmth of Pontic hospitality. A night with a Pontic family in Iskenderli was a profound experience. The house we stayed at was their summer home, at the 'Parchar' (Par · chàr = Parà tò choríon = next to the village). This is an ancient Pontic tradition, where people would live in the mountains near their village during the summer months to avoid the heat.
The evening unfolded with traditional Pontic dishes, shared stories, and laughter that echoed through the mountains. It was more than a stay—it was a cultural exchange, a connection to my roots.
Meeting the family
Communicating with the family was a bit tricky, as their English were as good as my Turkish, that is, non-existent. However, they were speaking Pontic Greek fluently, 'Rumja' (coming from the Byzantine Empire, Romeika = from Rome = Greek) as they call them, thus we managed to communicate on the basics.
I also met the grandmother of the family who was an adorable woman in her 90s. She kept speaking to me in Turkish, and it took a lot of convincing before she realized I was also Pontic and switched the language. At her age, she still felt that this was a 'forbidden' language and was somewhat reluctant to use it with a stranger.
A funny story was that she told me she wanted to go to Rome, apart from Athens, to find her (Greek) roots. She probably believed that the Roman Empire was still a thing!
The Morning Chores
On the next morning, the family invited me to experience the daily routines of life in the village. Waking at dawn we went along to tend to the animals that the family kept, their crops and boil the milk we took from the cows.
Celebrating the Dormition of the Virgin at Izmiş
The Pontic Festival
Atop Mount Izmiş, the air buzzes with excitement during the festival celebrating the Dormition of the Virgin. Traditional music, dance, and rituals create a vibrant tapestry of Pontic culture. The festival at 1300m is not just an event; it's a manifestation of community spirit. When I visited, we were standing above the clouds, which made for an eerie experience!
This traditional event still takes place, although it is a Christian Orthodox celebration. The tradition has been kept alive for centuries.
Touching Moment --
On the way to the festival, the driver asked me where my ancestors came from. I told him that my grandpa came from 'Kerasounta' (now Giresun). He then said: "You should come back and live here again, I have an extra house to give you to stay in".
My Participation in the Festival
Participating in the festival allowed me to capture the essence of Pontic celebrations through my lens. The joyous faces, the familiar attire, and the rhythm of traditional dances painted a vivid picture of a community proud of its heritage. The mountaintop became a stage for cultural preservation.
I have never seen such a large number of participants in a single circular dance before in my life. I was also amazed to see an old tradition of a man standing in the middle with a stick, ensuring that the dance was kept circular. This tradition is not kept nowadays in Greece.
Food at the festival
Different carts were set around the space of the festival, serving traditional dishes, including the famous cooked meat, 'Kavourmas'. Long tables are also set around the area of the festival where you can take your plate and enjoy your meal.
