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Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage.

Writer's picture: George TatakisGeorge Tatakis

The journey began with a simple desire—to reconnect with my Pontic roots and explore the city of Trabzon, a place steeped in history and cultural richness. In this photographic odyssey, I invite you to join me on a narrative journey through the enchanting city, the culinary delights of Hamsiköy, a night spent with a Pontic family in Iskenderli, and the vibrant celebration of the Dormition of the Virgin at the mountaintop festival in Izmiş.

Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage, by photographer George Tatakis
At an ethnographic museum in Trabzon.

Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage.

Trabzon, nestled on the northeastern coast of Turkey, holds a special place in the heart of those with Pontic ancestry, like myself. As I embarked on this journey, the goal was not just to explore a city but to trace the threads of my heritage woven into the fabric of Pontos, thus Trabzon's history.

Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage, by photographer George Tatakis
View of Trabzon.

The Enchanting City of Trabzon

Historical landmarks

The Hagia Sophia of Trabzon stands as a silent witness to centuries of Pontic history. Its walls echo stories of conquests, cultural exchanges, and the resilience of the Pontic people. Trabzon Castle, perched on a hill, offers panoramic views of the city and the Black Sea, providing a visceral connection to the past.

The Trabzon Museum, a repository of Pontic heritage, houses artefacts that narrate the tale of a people deeply rooted in tradition. Wandering through the narrow streets of the old town, one can't help but be captivated by the architectural gems that speak of a bygone era.

Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage, by photographer George Tatakis
Old houses around Trabzon.

Unveiling Trabzon's Charm

Enchanting Lake Uzungöl

Trabzon's enchanting beauty finds its pinnacle at Lake Uzungöl. Surrounded by emerald forests, the lake mirrors the tranquillity of the Pontic way of life. A stroll along its shores is a poetic dance between nature and history.

Kalyan: A Hidden Gem

Venturing beyond the mainstream, Kalyan emerges as a hidden gem. This quaint village narrates tales of a bygone era, its cobbled streets echoing with whispers of the Pontic legacy. Kalyan invites every traveller to become a storyteller.

Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage, by photographer George Tatakis
Mosque and Lake Uzungöl.

Hamsiköy: Savoring the Tastiest Rice Pudding

Culinary delights

Hamsiköy, a quaint village near Trabzon, is renowned for its delectable rice pudding (Ryzogalo). The irresistible blend of creamy rice, tasty milk, subtle sweetness, and a hint of local flavours, such as rose water and the famous Pontic ground hazelnuts (in Pontic: Leftokarea') creates a culinary masterpiece. It's not just a dessert; it's a sensory journey.

In Hamsiköy, I found myself immersed in a culinary adventure. Conversations with locals revealed the secrets behind the perfect rice pudding recipe, each family adding a unique touch. The shared joy of savouring this delicacy created a bond that transcended language.

Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage, by photographer George Tatakis
The tastiest rice pudding I've ever had.

The monastery of Panagia Sumela (Sumela Manastir)

On the way, we couldn't miss stopping at the monastery of the Virgin Sumela. The most important religious site for the Pontic Greeks. The Icon of the Virgin from that monastery is kept in Greece, at the monastery of Sumela near Kozani, Macedonia. This is a very important religious artifact for Greeks and when a litany takes place, the Icon is treated with the honours of the head of state.

Exploring Trabzon: Tracing my Pontic Roots and Heritage, by photographer George Tatakis
Sumela Monastery, etched on a cliff

Iskenderli: A Night in the Mountains with a Pontic Family

Journey to the mountain village

The road to Iskenderli is a scenic masterpiece, winding through lush landscapes and revealing glimpses of Pontic life. On the way, I stopped at a village in-between, the name of which escapes my mind at the moment. I noticed there was a dance set up in a school's yard. The dancing looked very familiar to me as it was Ponti