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Writer's pictureGeorge Tatakis

A Journal on Board a Cargo Vessel: Unveiling the Maritime Symphony

This is my chronicle from my experience on board a cargo vessel, where the crew were a mix of Russian and Ukrainian seamen. During this dark time for humanity, I thought I should share this story of these two nationalities working together in unison, peacefully.

The Captain of the vessel by photographer George Tatakis
The Captain of the vessel

The Chronicle on Board a Cargo Vessel from Gibraltar to Suez.

Boarding the Cargo Vessel (22 - 23 Jan)

This would be my first experience on a merchant ship. The agent took me from the airport to take me to the border with Gibraltar. At that point, I realised that Gibraltar belongs to England and not to Spain. Everything there is reminiscent of England, which seemed to me a paradox since it was a Mediterranean location and it made me think of what Greece would look like if governed by an organised country like England. The excitement, of course, was as with all new things. After a while, I would decide that it would not suit her.

Unexpected Delays and Enchanting Encounters

The taxi that took me from the Gibraltar border to my surprise drove to the hotel. I had expected to go straight to the ship. The driver reassured me that the boat had not yet arrived. I later found out that the ship had arrived in Gibraltar, but waited its turn to anchorage. Here it would stop for refuelling, as most ships that pass through here do. This is one of the city's main revenue, along with online gambling and tourism.

Eventually, I had to wait a day and a half before boarding, which I used to discover this fascinating British city. It reminded me a lot of the time I lived in Great Britain, so I felt pretty comfortable and did some pub crawling in the evening, with "Lord Nelson" being the first, where I enjoyed my favourite pint of draught Guinness. I walked around the city since everything was close by.

The Rock of Gibraltar by photographer George Tatakis
The Rock of Gibraltar

In the afternoon of the second day, after I had just returned to the room, the phone rang. It was the receptionist who told me that the taxi was waiting for me. It came as a surprise to me because I was expecting a notice from the agency that they were about to come and pick me up. Luckily I was in the room so I hurriedly picked things up and went down to the taxi. The driver was upset and complained that he had been waiting for twenty minutes. He exaggerated. It just took me five. He just managed to make me feel stressed, for which there was no reason since there was no boat on the pier to pick me up when I arrived.

Some guys who were loading pallets with our provisioning told me to wait next to a large piece of concrete where a boat would come to pick me up. They asked if I was the superintendent of to board. "I don't know" I replied "about superintendent; maybe super photographer", and we laughed.

Aboard the Vessel: Challenges and Camaraderie

It was dark already and it was raining. I found refuge in some oil containers standing against the wind that was blowing. My photographic zeal, of course, but also my anxiety about not seeing the boat coming and missing a good shot, soaked me wet. A new guy who would embark with me to check on the refuelling process showed up. He explained to me that two boats would come, one for us, since his job was urgent, and another for the pallets. The first to come was the one for pallets.

Mr. X in his raincoat waiting at the port, by photographer George Tatakis
Mr. X in his raincoat waiting at the port

I've been on board similar boats in the past, but this one was much bigger and I found it challenging to jump on it. What worried me the most was the rain because everything was slippery. I shared my worry with the man - I never found out his name- and he told me the general rule: "You have to wait for the wave to lift the boat towards yourself and then you jump. If you don't manage the first time, don't rush, wait for the next wave."

With a quick jump, I found myself on the boat. It was already dark and along the way, we could see many merchant boats around us. I asked Mr X if he knew which one was ours and he said no. "But," he continued, "don't worry because they know," pointing to the boat crew. The captain and another guy who was texting on his phone. After a while, however, we reached the boat. I could tell from afar because I had seen a photo of it, but I confirmed when I read the aft: “L…”. Next to it was the bunker that would supply us with oil, also Greek: “NAXOS”.

Towards the vessel at nightfall, by photographer George Tatakis
Towards the vessel at nightfall

Mr X was illuminating with his flashlight, as we circled the ship around, the levels of both of them and was putting the numbers down in his log. Then I saw it: a seven-metre pilot ladder hanging from the boat. I was terrified. I just remember asking Mr X: "What, seriously?" He replied by just saying “yes”, without paying much attention to me. My heart was beating loudly before I even stretched my hand to catch the ladder. Then I began to bring to my mind as many logical thoughts as I could to reassure myself:

“So many people do this every day”

“Since you're here now you should do it”

“Someone has designed this system properly to be safe for everybody”

So I jump, I get off the wet boat to the ladder and start climbing. I am neither looking down, because I've already heard the boat leave me hanging in the void, nor up, so I don't see how much further I have to climb. I am only looking at the rope I have in front of me clenched in my fists with all my might. Carrying the bag with my equipment on my back and wet hands, all previous sensible thoughts are slowly fading away and have now been replaced with others: “On the next step I'll slip and fall, I will lose my equipment and I’ve no idea how they are going to bring me back onboard”.

Irrational ideation and terror had overwhelmed me. All I was thinking about was holding the rope tight and climbing the stairs one by one.

When I finally got up, I was greeted by two crew members, who I don't even remember who they were, I am not even certain if it was two of them (!) and after I signed on the manifest, they took me to the captain. I was still numb and was following them mechanically. The captain was very friendly, informed me that the chief officer would take me to my cabin shortly after and asked if I needed anything or if I wanted to have dinner. I told him I was waiting for my heart to return to its place and then we would see. I explained that for the first time, I went up in a merchant ship with the pilot ladder and he sympathised, by doing the movement with his hands, that is, the heart beating loudly out of one’s chest.

Soon the chief officer came in and drove me to my cabin which is very spacious since it is the cabin they keep for the owner. He then took me to the mess room where I could eat. I found this room interesting. Two large tables, on which, since I was there outside the established dinner time, there were plates, covered with a membrane so that those who did not eat when dinner was served, could eat at any time they wanted. There was meat and potatoes, soup, fruit and salad.

After dinner and after pouring myself some coffee, I thought about going back to my cabin, since the crew was busy refuelling and didn't want to be in the way, after all, I still didn't know anyone. At that moment, Anthony, a tall slim guy, with his hair in Beatles style from Ukraine - all the crew were Ukrainians and Russians - came in and suggested that I go with him to the bridge because I would be bored sitting there by myself. So I followed him. As we went up the stairs I found out that he was the second officer and had thought of many shoots we could make. He was also a photographer in the past. So I told him I would assign him my assistant's job and given the chance I would give him some photography tips. He liked the idea and even told me that he would be my friend on the trip and that he would help me as much as he could, but I also had to take some nice photos of him. I assured him that he would replace his Facebook profile picture and he was excited.

Life on Deck: A Symphony of Experiences

The Majesty of the Vessel

The wheelhouse was impressive. From there you could see the grandeur of the boat: seven cargo holds, full of soybeans. If I were to toss a stone with all my strength from the bridge, I don't think I would be able to get it to reach the third hold. They loaded the beans in New Orleans and were transporting them to Pakistan. The total capacity of the ship is eighty-five thousand tons. We were now carrying seventy-two thousand. Anton, the third officer, let me know. Since these two have the same name, I thought I could refer to them as Anton the second and Anton the third. But because this way they would sound like kings, I'll be referring to the second as Anthony and the third as Anton.

After exploring the bridge, I sat in Anthony's place and finished my coffee. They were all swamped so I didn't have much opportunity to talk to them. It doesn't matter, it's still too soon. Tomorrow they will have been used to my presence and they will be more relaxed I thought. After all, I had already discovered some places and it seems like I have made my first friend.

The captain told me that we would sail away sometime after midnight. So I bid them goodnight and returned to my cabin. The first sleeping experience was not the best. Having turned off the main engine due to refuelling, the cabin was extremely cold. After some time I ended up wearing all the clothes I had in my suitcase and was dressed up as an astronaut. So now I couldn't sleep because it was no longer possible to close my arms. Refuelling ended after three in the morning and an hour later I finally fell asleep.

I was thinking that I wanted to make a portrait of the captain against the imposing rock of Gibraltar, but I couldn't do it, since we were leaving at night. Does not matter. There are a lot of places on the ship and we will also cross the Suez Canal. After all, in art, as I understand it, you never really get to where you were planning to go. But in the end, if you let work itself guide you, you are up for a better reward.

The cargo vessel floating across the Mediterranean, by photographer George Tatakis
The cargo vessel floating across the Mediterranean

Crew Dynamics and Shared Moments

DAY 3 (24 - 25 Jan)

I am taking my morning coffee on the deck outside the bridge and enjoying a fresh bowl in my pipe. I already have a cup, with my name on it. Anthony made me a “Georgios” label yesterday and pasted it on a white cup like the ones you see at the hotel breakfast buffet.

“Here. You are now officially a seaman”,

he told me. I am gazing at the stern waters and it looks to me as if I am travelling o