As the boat docked at the port of Mesta on Chios Island, I arrived in the early hours of the morning, feeling a sense of excitement and anticipation. Autumn was nearing its end, and a cool breeze greeted me as I rolled down the car window. It was then that I was struck by the scent of the island - the fragrant Chios. It was a smell that was difficult to put into words, but if I could, I would describe it as something that would define all other smells in the world.
The Mystique of Mastic: A Fragrant Gift from Saint Isidore
Chios is known for its citrus trees that fill the valley with their aroma, but it is the ancient and mysterious resin of the mastic trees in the southern part of the island that truly captivates the senses. Legend has it that the mastic was a gift from Saint Isidore, who sought refuge near Mesta in 250 AD after being chased and injured by the Romans. Exhausted and unable to continue, he found solace under a mastic tree where it is said that the tree wept tears of the fragrant resin. The tears filled the area with their aroma, and the southern part of the island where the Saint was believed to have suffered became abundant with mastic trees.
Although mastic may have been known since ancient times, with references found in the writings of Hippocrates, it is still a wonder how such a precious substance can be found so abundantly on Chios. Mastic is truly the diamond of Chios, and it is not a rare mineral for the locals. It oozes and solidifies on logs by the roadside, and one can simply stand, cut a piece, and taste its unique flavour. Yet, for the rest of the world, it remains elusive, available only through the generosity of the Chios locals.
Chios' Prosperity: Woven in Silk and Prestige
This unique treasure of mastic put Chios on the map and brought it privileges in difficult times. The wealth generated from mastic trade allowed other industries to flourish on the island, with silk production and processing becoming a prominent trade. The Chians gained prestige in European palaces by supplying them with exquisite woven textiles.
Traditional Costumes: A Kaleidoscope of Heritage
During my travels, I have never encountered a place with such a rich variety of traditional costumes as Chios. The island's abundant production of high-quality fabrics, combined with the wealth from trade, has resulted in a diverse array of clothing styles. Each village, to display its prosperity, developed its unique traditional costumes, resulting in a stunning variety of clothing styles.
I was fortunate enough to capture twenty-one different sections of clothing from Chios, either in their original form or as meticulously crafted replicas. However, there are many more traditional costumes whose details may forever remain a mystery to us. Nevertheless, the surviving garments I documented provide a fascinating glimpse into the rich sartorial heritage of Chios Island.
Unveiling the Cultural Tapestry of Chios through its Traditional Costumes
Vessa - Mastichochorea
Embarking on my initial sojourn, I found myself traversing the quaint village of Vessa, nestled within the domain where the Mastic trees flourish, enveloping 24 hamlets collectively recognized as Mastichochorea. I met the three young ladies adorned in the local attire and together, we undertook a meticulous exploration of the village, diligently seeking out fitting backdrops for our creative endeavor. Our quest led us to the precincts of a couple of dilapidated residences, one of which featured an exquisite staircase, serving as a setting for our visual narrative.
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Elata - Mastichochorea
I relocated to the neighboring village of Elata on that very day, propelled by an insatiable curiosity to delve further into the indigenous sartorial tapestry. Engaging with three local ladies bedecked in traditional clothing, we embarked on a visual odyssey within the precincts of a castle-house hewn from time-weathered stone.
Subsequently, our repérage led us to discover additional backdrops, unveiling the poetic desolation of another forsaken house, as well as the ethereal charm woven into the labyrinthine alleys of the locale.
Dafnonas - Kampochorea
Venturing into Dafnonas later that day left me eager for a return, craving the opportunity to capture more portraits a couple of days later. Stepping into the charming village, I was greeted by five young ladies, each dressed in the local costume. Their warm welcome set the tone for an adventure as we joyfully roamed the steep inclines of the village, scouting for picturesque spots. Navigating the terrain with my photography equipment proved to be no small feat, but the shared laughter which made it all worthwhile. As the photo shoot wrapped up, we celebrated our efforts with refreshing drinks at a quaint local café, savoring the memories created in the heart of Dafnonas.
Kallimasia - Ionia
On another day, I captured Kallimasia's local female costumes in the Chios region of Ionia. Guided by five local ladies who became my muses, we embarked on a quest to unearth the soul of tradition. Our canvas was an old, weathered local house that whispered tales of bygone eras, providing the perfect backdrop for our photographic exploration.
Vassileoniko - Kampochorea
Later that day, I had the pleasure of meeting five women in the charming village of Vassileoniko nestled in Chios' picturesque valley. Dressed in the traditional local costumes, our backdrop was the enchanting courtyard of a time-worn, local house, adding a touch of nostalgia to our photographic adventure.
Agios Georgios Sikoussis - Kampochorea
Nestled in the valley of Chios, the charming village of Agios Georgios Sikoussis unveils a mesmerizing scene crafted entirely from stone. Amidst this rustic beauty, I met with a group of five women spanning various age ranges, adorned in the captivating attire of the region. They became subjects for my lens, posing with their traditional costumes against the backdrop of the idyllic village landscape.
Neochori - Agios Minas
The next stop was the village of Neochori, nestled in the heart of Agios Minas, Chios. A group of nine spirited women, adorned in the local traditional attires, eagerly awaited their portraits to be brought to life. Together, we ventured through the streets of the village, exploring every nook and cranny for the perfect backdrop. The shutter clicked in various spots, capturing the essence of Neochori, from the stories etched in the lines of the traditional costumes to the echoes of an abandoned local factory whispering tales of days gone by.
Thymiana - Agios Minas
Nestled in the enchanting region of Agios Minas, Thymiana beckons with its vibrant musical spirit. It was within this charming village that I encountered a group of five women. Against the backdrop of their rich cultural heritage, I embarked on a captivating journey, capturing the essence of their stories through intricately woven portraits donning traditional costumes. Our adventure unfolded in various scenic spots, with the majestic monastery of Agii Anargyri serving as a particularly inspiring backdrop to our creative endeavor.
Lithi - Mastichochorea
In the picturesque village of Lithi, nestled in the heart of Mastichochorea, I captured the portraits of three remarkable women. Roaming through the charming landscapes, we stumbled upon the weathered remnants of the ancestral home belonging to none other than the renowned Greek benefactor, Andreas Syggros. Within the walls of this abandoned house, a photographic narrative unfolded, weaving together the stories of these individuals and the rich history that lingers in every corner of this village.
Nenita - Ionia
As the sun dipped low on the horizon, our final destination unfolded in the enchanting Mastic-producing village of Nenita. Amidst the fragrant Mastic trees, I captured three local women donning the traditional costumes. From the rustic charm of a local Mastic warehouse to the timeless backdrop of ancient ruins, each frame told a story. As the day transitioned into night, we found ourselves at a cozy local taverna, savoring delectable bites and refreshing drinks—a perfect ending to our day.
Armolia - Mastichochorea
Over the weekend, as the locals eased into a leisurely pace, I found myself on a journey from sunrise to sunset, photographing more costumes. My adventure kicked off at the enchanting castle village of Armolia, nestled in the heart of Mastichochorea. Here, the air was filled with the artistry of handmade pottery, and the vibrant spirit of the village came alive. A trio of women, accompanied by a young girl, adorned themselves in the traditional local costume. Together, we embarked on a delightful exploration, crafting portraits that tell the timeless tales of this picturesque village.
Pyrgi - Mastichochorea
Step into the world of Pyrgi, a charming village that, along with Mesta, reigns as the largest gem in the Mastichochorea region. I started at Pyrgi, a place celebrated for its house facades adorned with a unique technique called "Xysto" – a delicate dance of plaster etched with mesmerizing geometric shapes using humble forks. These intricate designs, a signature of Chios, tell stories of craftsmanship and tradition. I captured the local costumes through my lens within the embrace of the community's streets and homes, but also made connections with the locals, engaging with officials from the local Municipality.
Mesta - Mastichochorea
Mesta is a grandeur among the Mastichochorea castle villages. This picturesque haven, crafted entirely from stone, unfolds like a charming labyrinth with narrow alleys weaving through its heart. Delving into history, these intricate pathways were ingeniously designed to aid locals in evading dreaded pirate raids. The houses stand shoulder to shoulder, their roofs forming a tapestry so interconnected that locals once traversed the village by leaping from one rooftop to another. Encircling these timeless dwellings are formidable stone walls, concealing a handful of inconspicuous entrances that defy detection. Amidst this captivating backdrop, I've captured the essence of Mesta through photographic portraits, showcasing four women adorned in exquisite traditional costumes, each image a testament to the village's rich heritage and timeless allure.
Olympoi - Mastichochorea
In the realm of Mastichochorea, my exploration led me to the captivating village of Olympoi, the final gem of the day. There I met with six local women adorned in their splendid traditional costumes with whom we roamed the village in search of picturesque backdrops. Word spread like wildfire, turning our group into a lively procession that meandered through the charming streets. Amidst this kaleidoscope of moments, an old abandoned house, once belonging to a local painter, beckoned us with its nostalgic allure. The final frame captured, we wrapped up our artistic endeavor and retreated to a local taverna, where the day's tale culminated in a feast of flavors that danced on our palates.
Ververato - Kampochorea
One day, I found myself exploring the enchanting village of Ververato nestled in the picturesque valley of Chios. In the heart of this charming haven, I met with five ladies adorned in vibrant, local traditional costumes. Together, we strolled around the village, capturing their portraits within the rustic walls of an ancient local mill and amidst the quaint charm of the village.
Kofinas - at the Leprosarium
The hauntingly beautiful ruins of Lovokomeio bear witness to the clash of realities within a leprosarium. Built during the 14th century, this secluded colony was a sanctuary for those afflicted by Hansen’s disease, better known as leprosy, a malady shrouded in fear and alleged contagion. Imagine the bittersweet respite it offered, a small comfort to the victims forced into isolation from their homes and families. Stretching back over 4,000 years, the historical grasp of this skin and nervous system disease was accompanied by biblical superstitions in the Middle Ages, painting it as divine retribution.
Lovokomeio stands as one of Europe's earliest leper communities, surrounded by a pine forest that, despite its coerced solitude, lent a certain charm. Abandoned during the Greek War of Independence and ravaged by an earthquake, the colony saw restoration in the 20th century, adorned with modern amenities. However, its gates closed in 1957, leaving behind ruins and the poignant memories of society's outcasts.
Against this backdrop, I captured the portraits of four women draped in the vibrant local dresses of Kofinas.
Costumes of the immigrants from Capadoccia
The tales of Capadoccia immigrants come to life through the exquisite dresses curated by the local Cultural Society. Nestled within the embrace of the historic 'Faros' library, these dresses tell stories of bygone eras. Five local ladies adorned in these cultural treasures, weave a tapestry of history and tradition. As we ventured beyond the library's walls, our journey unfolded around the majestic castle of Chios, capturing not just portraits but moments that echo the rich heritage of this charming island.
Kallamoti - Mastichochorea
Kallamoti is a Mastic-producing village, and we decided to bring its vibrant costumes to life against the charming backdrop of Chios town. Two ladies donned these traditional attires, becoming the focal point of portraits captured in two distinct landmarks. The ancient stone mills and the hauntingly beautiful abandoned tanneries served as the perfect settings that unveil the rich tapestry of Chios's cultural heritage.
Kardamyla - Northern Chios
Nestled in the picturesque northern region of Chios, the vibrant villages of Kardamyla and Volissos unfold tales of maritime legacy and resilience. It's in these hamlets that most of the renowned shipowners of Chios trace their roots, their adventurous spirits shaped by the absence of Mastic, the island's famed resin, in this part of the land. In days of old, driven by the quest for livelihood, these daring inhabitants sailed the seas, carving a unique identity for themselves.
Step into the past, where the walls of a local abandoned house echo with history, as five ladies adorned in traditional costumes breathe life into portraits that tell the story of their village and its seafaring legacy.
Volissos - Northern Chios
In the village of Volissos, four women and two young girls adorned themselves in the local traditional costumes. Amidst the timeworn charm of two abandoned houses, we captured their portraits.
Chalkio - Kampochorea
Imagine capturing the vibrant essence of Chios in a single frame—traditional local costumes set against the backdrop of a lush citrus orchard. Chios, renowned for its fragrant lemons and oranges, breathes life into the air with the sweet aroma of Mastic, creating the enchanting atmosphere which gave Chios' name: "Myrovolos Chios" (Fragrant Chios). In the heart of the valley lies the picturesque village of Chalkio, where five captivating ladies adorned in their traditional attire posed amidst a local orange grove. This snapshot not only freezes a moment in time but encapsulates the very spirit and aroma of Chios itself.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the traditional costumes of Chios Island not only reflect the island's rich cultural tapestry but also serve as a visual journey through its history and heritage. Each village, with its unique costumes and backdrops, contributes to the overall narrative, making Chios a living museum of traditions. As we explore the vibrant attire of Chios, we not only witness the beauty of the costumes but also immerse ourselves in the stories and traditions that have shaped this captivating island.
Love
xx
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